Here are three steps toward lower energy bills:

• 1. Plug the air leaks in your home
• 2. Ensure your home is properly insulated
• 3. Optimize your heating equipment

PLUG THOSE LEAKS

Air leaks are often the greatest energy waster in the home. Air infiltration through small holes, cracks and other openings may contribute to as much as 30% of your home’s heating and cooling costs. Infiltration not only wastes energy and money, it contributes to moisture, noise and dust problems.

The most common places for air leaks are around doors and windows, but leaks can also be found around:

• Chimneys.
• Recessed lights and light fixtures.
• Attic entrances.
• Electric wires and boxes.
• Vents and fans.
• Plumbing utilities.
• Water and furnace flues.
• Electrical outlets.

To locate air leaks, conduct an air leakage survey such as the one developed by Urban Options. It involves inspection of potential problem areas for cracks or gaps. Burning a stick of incense near potential problems can help locate invisible leaks. If the smoke stream travels horizontally, there is an air leak that may need to be repaired.

Installing weatherstripping and caulking leaks will stop these expensive drafts and improve comfort. Added bonus: caulking and weatherstripping are cheap and almost anyone can do it.

Find out how to caulk and weatherstrip.

A professional may also be hired to conduct a blower door test, a more technical depressurization test that helps quantify the extent of leaks by measuring the air pressure difference between the homes interior and exterior. Many utilities provide this service free of charge. If your local utility doesn’t, it still would be worth the fee to hire an expert Home Energy Rater (HERS) to perform the test. You’ll probably recoup the cost from increased energy savings within two years and you’ll feel the improvement in comfort immediately.

Find a HERS rater.

KEEP THE HEAT IN

Air sealing should be performed before adding insulation because gaps and cracks in the wall allow air passage, decreasing the effectiveness of the insulation.

Insulation is a cost-effective way to save energy and improve comfort. Insulation provides additional benefits including noise reduction, fire resistance and safety. It’s not just your walls that need insulation - attics need significantly higher amounts of insulation, and floors over unheated areas should also be insulated. And don’t forget your ducts!

There are four basic types of insulation: loose fill, batts and blankets, rigid board and spray foam. Insulation levels will depend on your location. The most appropriate type of insulation to use will vary based on the type of construction, the extent of the project planned and applicable code requirements.

Department of Energy’s map of recommended insulation levels.

OPTIMIZE YOUR HEATING EQUIPMENT

Maintain Your Furnace. Clean or replace filters monthly during operating season. Keep your furnace clean, lubricated and properly adjusted. These actions can easily save you 5-10 percent on energy used for heating. In heating season, set your thermostat at 68 degrees or lower during the day, health permitting.

Program Your Thermostats. You could save 10% on your heating and cooling costs just by setting your thermostat back when you’re not home and while you’re sleeping. Program your thermostat to 65 degrees F or lower in the winter. Set your clock thermostat at 55 degrees during the night, or when you will be away for more than four hours. If you tell it to return to your preferred temperature before you return home, you won’t ever know the temperature changed, until you look at the reduction in your energy bills. More information on programmable thermostats.

If you don’t have a programmable thermostat and don’t want to pay $80-120 to buy one and have it installed, just remember to turn your thermostat down before you leave and before you go to sleep. You’ll save $$.

Optimize Your Water Heater. If you don’t have one installed already, put an insulative jacket around your hot water heater, and insulate the pipes around the water heater. Insulative jackets cost between $10 and $20.

Also, many people have the temperature on their heaters set too high. Turning it down to 120 degrees will not only save you money, but prevent children from scalding.

Although most water heaters last 10-15 years, it’s best to start shopping for a new one if yours is more than 7 years old. Doing some research before your heater fails will enable you to select one that most appropriately meets your needs.

And. . .

Don’t forget to close the damper when not using the fireplace. Turn your heater(s) down when using your fireplace.

During the heating season, keep the window coverings on south-facing windows open during the day to allow sunlight in. But remember to close them at night.

Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters and radiators as needed; make sure they’re not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes.

Also consider adding interior storm windows, which can reduce window air leakage by improving the overall window assembly’s insulation value.

Reduce your electrical bill by using energy-saving cfls instead of standard incandescent lightbulbs. Change out the five most used bulbs and your bill will dip noticeably.

Further Information

ENERGY STAR’s Home Improvement

Energy Savers: Tips on Saving Energy and Money at Home

ENERGY STAR’s Home Sealing

Courtesy of PATH
www.pathnet.org/homeowners

In the beginning, there was the living room, and families - unaware of the coming joys of television - gathered there in the evening to spend time together. Then, the rec room evolved, but it was often in the basement or away from the home’s main living area, and inhabitants felt isolated. And so the family room arose, to satisfy the need for a place where families could gather, play and enjoy one another while still being in the main part of the house.

Sadly, it’s easy for your family room’s purpose to get lost in the hectic pace and clutter of everyday life. If it’s time for your family to rise up and reclaim this room, here are some tips for putting the “family” back into “family room.”

1. Really think about how you and your family will use the room. Will it just be a place where you all gather to watch TV? Or will you be playing games there, holding family meetings, hosting kids’ play dates, etc.? Make a list of all the activities you expect will take place in your family room on a regular basis. Knowing how the room is really used will help in the steps ahead.

2. Cut the clutter. If your family room has become a storage space for furniture that doesn’t fit anywhere else in the house, or the treadmill that you’d like to forget you bought, you’ll need to get the junk out before you can reclaim the room for your family. Likewise, if the room is crammed with souvenirs and memorabilia from family trips, it will be visually overwhelming - and not feel welcoming to family members.

3. Be sure the room includes something for every age group represented in your core family. Small children won’t feel at home in a room with sophisticated grown-up decor and furniture that they can’t sit (or play) on. Likewise, parents will feel left out in a family room filled to bursting with kids toys and not much else. To make a room truly functional for the entire family, you’ll need to choose furniture and décor that can be useful and comfortable for every member of the family.

4. It’s your family room, so don’t be afraid to show off your beautiful family in the room’s decor. This is the spot where it’s appropriate to display the latest family portrait, pictures from your favorite vacation, even your oldest’s bronzed baby shoes. If you really want to make a family-oriented statement, consider converting a favorite family photo into a wallpaper mural and making it a central piece in the room’s décor. At www.muralsyourway.com, you can have an easy-to-install wallpaper mural made from your personal photos, and you can customize the size to fit in your room.

5. Families that dine together regularly are closer than those who don’t, studies show. Many of us use our family rooms for informal meals or just to share a fun snack time together. If the kitchen isn’t close to your family room, you might want to find a spot in the room for a microwave, small refrigerator or even a bar sink.

6. For all the colloquial wisdom that says technology depersonalizes interactions, families have always used it to draw closer together - from the days when families sat around the radio listening to news reports or comedy shows, to modern times when we watch DVDs together on our large-screen, high-definition plasma TVs. Be sure the presence of technology in your family room matches the level of its importance in your lives. If you enjoy watching a lot of movies, you’ll want to invest in a good TV and DVD player. If music is your family’s passion, a surround-sound stereo system might be in order. It’s also a good idea to locate the family desktop computer in this room, where parents will find it easier to monitor kids’ computer and Internet time.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

Like the Florida and Mediterranean home, the Southwest style home is designed to thrive in hot climates.  A variety of looks are encompassed by this style, including Pueblo, Spanish Revival, Adobe and Mission.  Exterior walls are typically clad in stucco or stucco-like materials and/or brick.  Wood siding is also sometimes used, since humidity is low in the style’s indigenous region.   Flat roofs or low-pitched tiled roofs, deep overhangs, rounded edges, decorative arches and courtyards commonly play a part in the look of these southwestern homes.   Although multiple levels are commonly built, single-story designs make up the majority of the homes in this category.

• Stucco or brick exterior
• Flat or low-pitched tile roofs with deep overhangs
• Decorative arches, columns and courtyards
• Southwestern floor plans can be one or two story.

Popular Pueblo Style Home Plan #94423
This amazing 1583 square foot two story pueblo design features a three bedroom floor plan and three full bath rooms. The tiled foyer opens into a large living room with a unique Kiva fireplace.
The Master Bedroom is located on the upper level and adjoins with a private roof garden style deck.
An efficient “U” shaped Kitchen with snack bar is located next to the dining area.
A second Master Bedroom on the main level with private bath opens onto the patio.

Search our Southwest Style House Plans collection

Kitchens today are more than places to prepare meals. The room now ranks as the heart of the home plan and center of family activity.

“The kitchen has become the hub of the house,” says Barry Levett, owner and president of House of Lights in Mayfield Heights, Ohio. “Families today truly live in the kitchen. Kids study there; parents pay the bills and write checks there; everyone reads the morning paper in the kitchen; families eat their meals there.”

Such multi-tasking kitchens demand equally versatile lighting. A single 100-watt fixture centered in the kitchen’s ceiling is no longer sufficient.

“I see people every day who are saddled with one light in the middle of the kitchen,” says Geoff Dent, president of Dent Electrical Supply in Danbury, Connecticut. “Most of the work in a kitchen is done around the perimeter of the room. This means that, with only one central fixture, you’re working in your own shadow. To make matters worse, the fixture is usually undersized, and we all need more light as we get older.”

The Right Light for the Job
The best lighting for your kitchen depends on the size and complexity of the room. Small kitchens may require only a central ceiling fixture and task lighting tucked under a cabinet. More elaborate kitchens will demand a blend of general, task, and accent lighting, according to the American Lighting Association.

“Lights have specific functions, whether it’s to accent a specific area, create general ambience, focus on a task, or wash a wall,” says Monty Gilbertson, CLC, manager and buyer for Lighting Design by Wettsteins in Lacrosse, Wisconsin. “You are seeing all types incorporated into the kitchen.”

Determine what you want the lights to do. Functional fixtures provide well-diffused general lighting that’s perfect for moving about the room safely, peering inside drawers and cabinets, and performing chores. While large, surface fluorescents have been popular in the past, the latest looks revolve around recessed lights and low voltage, industrial styles, often with a metal finish.

The latest looks revolve around low-voltage, industrial style. (Photo courtesy of The American Lighting Association)

Recessed downlights assure even illumination. Installed over the stove and sink areas, they create adequate task lighting for cooking and cleaning. “When you add new lights over the sink or stove, the whole area comes alive,” says Levett.

The kitchen table is another family focal point. A decorative pendant, operating with a dimmer control, will provide sufficient lighting. “People want to make a statement by hanging a pendant, then backing it up with task lighting at the counter,” says Gilbertson.

Pendant lighting installed over islands or peninsulas gets the job done. “Light over the island is not only functional, but beautiful,” says Dent. “Even people who use recessed lights throughout the kitchen can introduce some color and style over the island. I personally prefer several smaller pendants.”

Consider a decorative fixture with three lights. “A trio over an island provides good light,” says Levett. “It breaks up the kitchen but you can still see through it.”

Decorative pendants illuminate the center island while task lighting over the counters and range ensure that no one gets left in the dark. (Photo courtesy of The American Lighting Association)

Make Sure You Have Enough Circuits
No matter how many lights you install in your kitchen, the American Lighting Association recommends circuiting them separately so the lighting is zoned. This allows you to create ambience by mixing the various lights you turn on. The easiest way to do this is when you are building your new house. Your electrical contractor can help you with this process.

“Lights above the cabinets should be soft and low-voltage,” suggests Gilbertson. “The light over the sink should have its own switch. Same with the lights over the island and those over counters. You will be pleased with the results.”

For more information about kitchen lighting, visit www.americanlightingassoc.com, the website of the American Lighting Association, a not-for-profit association of leading manufacturers, retail lighting showrooms, and sales representatives in the U.S. and Canada.

This category is by far the most difficult to define, yet it is the most commonly constructed architectural “style” in America - and it has been for many years.  Traditional homes are not necessarily “historic” homes and they are certainly not contemporary in style.  They are practical, “day-to-day living” designs and their appearance is attractive, but not overstated.  A variety of square footages and home types are found within this “catch all” category, including one-story, 1 ½- story, 2-story and multi-level designs.

• Non-descript styling
• Most common home style built in America
• One-story, 1 ½- story, 2-story and muti-level designs
• Traditional Floor Plans vary from under 1000 square feet to over 5000 square feet

Popular Traditional House Plans

Best Selling Traditional Home Plan #92317
This alluring 1-1/2 story “master-down” blends a spectacular traditional floor plan with a lovely facade to create a home that’s simply irresistible. It’s efficient traditional design yields spacious rooms and soaring spaces defying its affordable 2253 square foot size.
You’re welcomed by an inviting front porch, and greeted by a beautiful leaded glass door leading to the 2-story entry. To the right is an elegant dining room adorned with a tray ceiling. Beyond the stairs is the dramatic family room, accented with a corner fireplace and a window wall with arched transoms. The sumptuous master suite includes a double tray ceiling, sitting area and his and hers walk-in closets. The study/guest room provides a flexible space. And, at the end of a long day, the screened porch is the perfect place to relax. Lower level rooms, not vaulted or trayed, have 9′ ceilings.
The basement provides plenty of storage area and allows for future expansion. Upstairs, are two 11′x14′ bedrooms sharing a “Jack & Jill” bath. There’s also more flexible space with the large bonus room. All upper level rooms have 8′ ceilings. This traditional home plan continues to excite America as it remains one of our best selling traditional home designs of all time 

Search our Traditional Home Plans collection

When I was growing up, the kitchen sink in my home was dark brown enameled steel. It chipped easily and, because it was thin, it was noisy. Not a great sink, but it probably fit my parents’ budget. In those days, choices were few: enameled steel, cast-iron or stainless. How things change: Today the choices are so many that they’re overwhelming–you don’t just choose the sink material, but its style, type, color and bowl configuration.

This high-end farmhouse sink was carved from a single block of limestone. The manufacturer recommends that all stone sinks (or natural stone tiles and countertops) be sealed with a penetrating sealer. Even then, acidic liquids such as lemon juice or vinegar may etch the stone surface. (Photo compliments Walker Zanger)

Oh, and the sink has to accommodate the type of faucet you want, plus add-ons like sprayers and soap dispensers, so whichever sink you choose has to have enough cut-outs to accommodate the accessories.

Depending on your budget and your taste, a new kitchen sink can set you back anywhere from $50 to several thousand dollars. For instance, a low-end home center stainless-steel model can be yours for about $50, whereas a high-end stainless sink can cost more than $1,600. Get into more exotic materials, and the cost can go even higher. A one-of-a-kind hand-made copper sink (double bowl with backsplash, from Dino Rachiele, can cost about $4,000. A German Silver Sink Co. fixture can run $4,200 or more.

The more you know your taste and budget, the better decisions you’ll be able to make when choosing your sink.

Here’s something new and unusual, a sink/cook center combination. Made of 18-gauge stainless steel, it includes a standard sink plus includes an integrated cooking vessel for steaming, boiling, poaching and blanching. (Photo compliments Kohler Co.)

The Most Likely Suspects
Odds are, you’re not in the market for a kitchen sink that costs as much as a semester in college. If you’re like me, you want something that holds up to heavy use, looks good in your new kitchen, is easy to maintain and doesn’t cost a small fortune. Fortunately, there are lots of good sinks out there that fit several or all of those criteria. You just have to choose the type that’s right for you.

Stainless Steel: Stick with High Quality
If put to a vote, stainless steel sinks would top the popularity list, followed by solid surface (Corian, etc.) and composite sinks, with cast-iron coming in third. The reason that stainless sinks are so popular is that they’re affordable, durable and work well when mounted under the countertop (called an undermount sink).

Here’s an interesting
variation on the farmhouse –or “apron-front”–sink, a high-grade stainless-steel version.(Photo compliments
Franke)

Bryan Farrow, with Kitchen Designers Inc. in Marietta, Georgia, says his clients use undermounted stainless steel sinks “because the majority of countertops are granite and most people are using good-quality stainless steel undermount sinks because you need the rim strength to give extra strength. Everything’s held to the countertop by the rim. In fact, most of the inexpensive sinks don’t even come as undermounts.”

When it comes to choosing a stainless steel sink, you want to look at several things. Look for the highest-grade stainless, which is known as Type 302 (18/8). This kind of steel contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel for a really durable, rust-resistant finish.

You also want to look at the gauge, or thickness, of the stainless steel sink, because a thicker sink is less likely to dent than a thinner sink, plus the thicker sink won’t be as noisy as the thinner, tinnier one. So when you’re looking at the gauge, just remember that the lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel. While most sinks come in 18 to 20 gauge, sinks in 14 and 16 gauge steel are available on the high end, as well as 24 gauge on the lower end.

Although stainless sinks of the past were quite noisy–even the expensive ones–improvements in sound deadening technology have virtually eliminated the noise problem. Now, all but ultra-cheap stainless-steel sinks are sold with a factory applied undercoating that greatly reduces the sound of pots, pans, dishes and silverware banging against the sides of the sink.

This two-bowl undermount stainless-steel sink is one of the most popular sink types installed in new homes today. Good stainless steel, such as this 18-gauge stainless, resists dents and staining and its heavy undercoating reduces noise. (Photo courtesy Kohler Co.)

Solid Surface: The Seamless Material
In popularity, solid surface sinks rank in second place. And when it comes to solid surface materials, most people think of DuPont’s Corian, which is the oldest (having debuted in 1969) of the non-porous, acrylic brands used in creating countertops and integral sinks. But other solid surface manufacturers include Gibraltar, Avonite, Surell, Swanstone, Fountainhead, and Wilsonart.

The beauty of a solid-surface sink is that it’s fused with the solid-surface countertop to form one seamless piece, which means easy cleanup and low maintenance. (Photo courtesy Corian)

A huge benefit of an integral solid surface sink is that it’s pretty much seamlessly joined to the solid surface countertop, which means no little crevices for moisture and grime to build up.

Amy Sussek,a kitchen designer and one of the hosts of AsktheKitchenDesigner.com,
suggests to her clients that, if they want a solid surface countertop with an undermounted sink, they get an integral solid surface sink as well.

” If you do use an undermount sink, the (solid surface) fabricator charges a couple hundred dollars to do the sink cut-out, then you still have the price of the sink to consider,” according to Sussek.

“If it’s an integral sink (basically a one-piece, solid-surface sink-countertop combination), you don’t have that extra cost, just the cost of the sink added to the cost of the counter.”

Sussek says that integral solid surface sinks are at the top of her clients’ lists and many choose Swanstone. “It’s easier to take better care of the Swanstone sink. You clean with Ajax and a Scotchbrite pad. One client has one that still looks good after five years.”

“A huge benefit of an integral solid surface sink is that it’s seamlessly joined to the solid surface countertop, which means no little crevices for moisture and grime to build up.”

Farrow also likes solid surface sinks, especially Corian. “Corian is a great product. You can do anything you want with solid surfacing material. What you get is only limited by your imagination.”

Cast-iron: The Heavy Standard
A perennial kitchen favorite going back to the 19th century is the porcelain-coated cast-iron sink. Although it’s still a great value, it’s mostly relegated to use in kitchens that use laminate or some other type of countertop that requires a so-called drop-in sink (as opposed to undermounted or surface-mounted).

I’ve always been partial to big, heavy cast-iron kitchen sinks despite their drawbacks. In my opinion, they have no match when it comes to depth of color and beauty of finish. I also like the solid, substantial feel I get from cast-iron. And the thickness and density of the cast-iron makes it very quiet to use, which is something I appreciate.

This classic two-bowl cast-iron sink comes from the factory with an unsurpassed gleaming finish and a deep, rich color. When choosing cast-iron, don’t skimp; buy from a quality manufacturer. (Photo courtesy Kohler Co.)

Cast-iron does have its critics. Some homeowners have complained that the porcelain coating over modern cast-iron sinks chips more easily than it used to, because, they say, the sinks aren’t made as well as they once were. However, the porcelain coating will chip on even the best and most expensive cast-iron sink if you’re not careful–just like a Rolls Royce will dent if you carelessly back over the neighbor’s mailbox.

I haven’t found excessive chipping to be a problem with my sink, although I do take care to avoid chipping. I use a plastic-coated wire rack on the bottom of each bowl and I’m careful when washing heavy pots to avoid banging them against the sides of the bowl.

Both kitchen designers and plumbers recommend that you stick with name-brand manufacturers when you buy a cast-iron sink. And before it’s installed, make sure to check it for chips, especially around the rim, which is subject to regular contact with water.

What Else Is Out There?
From high-end to low-end, the world is full of other types of sinks. At the least-expensive level, there are enameled steel sinks, which, thanks to heavy spray-on undercoatings, perform much like cast-iron sinks but at a much lower price.

Composite sinks are another type on the market that are giving the solid surface sinks a run for their money.

Composites are often made from quartz or granite mixed with an acrylic binder. These sinks are fairly hard, scratch resistant and good values for the money.

This beautiful fireclay sink is durable and actually has a harder surface than even porcelain-coated cast-iron, which means it’s less likely to chip. The apron sink style requires strong support and careful detailing to avoid water damage, especially in this application where it’s surrounded by wood. (Photo courtesy Kohler Co.)

On the high end are a gamut of sink types from fireclay to copper to soapstone to, believe it or not, carved granite. It’s probably unnecessary to remind you of this, but anything out of the ordinary–especially anything hand made or created custom or in small quantities–costs more than the mass-produced sinks you’ll find at home centers and kitchen and bath shops.

Margaret Clarkson, a kitchen designer at Walker Zanger Inc. in Atlanta, sells an imported limestone farmhouse sink that’s carved from a solid block of limestone.

“Our business is tile and stone,” she said. “And this sink, which retails for $2,400, is absolutely beautiful.” Needless to say, they “appeal to the high-end user,” according to Clarkson.

Other high-end types of kitchen sinks include soapstone, marble, fireclay, copper and German silver, which is a copper, nickel and zinc composite.

One of the more popular and at the same time traditional high-end sink is soapstone, which is created by joining slabs of soapstone with epoxy to form the sink basin. One complaint about soapstone is that the bottom of the sink is so perfectly flat that anything on the bottom of the sink such as like crumbs must be manually swept toward the drain. Otherwise, it’s a beautiful material and ages gracefully.

Relatively new on the scene are so-called composite sinks like this undermount sink made of Silacron, which is 70% quartz and so very resistant to scratches and stains and is heat resistant up to 446 degrees. This model includes a waste-chute system accessory, a large bowl and a smaller prep-sink bowl. (Photo compliments of Blanco America)

Fireclay sinks, which have probably been around longer than even cast-iron, are one the newest trends in kitchen fixtures. Made by pouring liquid clay into a mold, then removed form the mold and sponged to a slick finish, fireclay sinks are then allowed to air dry. Later they’re sprayed with a ceramic finish and fired in a kiln. Fireclay is very hard and durable and reportedly doesn’t chip nearly as easily as cast-iron. It can be pricey, though, costing hundreds of dollars or more depending on the finish and any decoration.

Keep in mind, though, that many of these high-end sinks require wall-mounted faucets, which are expensive and often hard to find in just the style you want for your kitchen.

Bowls and Holes
Bryan Farrow says that most of the sinks his firm installs are “double-bowl, but big bowl-little bowl-often one decent size bowl and a bigger bowl. Most kitchens have that type or two sinks. They’ll come in with a vegetable or prep sink, often on an island.”

Amy Sussek says her clients like “deeper bowls–and two different size bowls at that.”

Brookwood Kitchens’ Thomas Caswell says his Atlanta clients are “always looking for something new and different” when it comes to kitchen sinks. “We’re doing a triple-bowl stainless right now. Most of our kitchens have two sinks: the main sink and a smaller sink on an island, which is sometimes a full-size single-bowl sink.”

Fraser, Colorado, kitchen designer Jim Barna says his firm is “doing a lot of two-sink kitchens that include a vegetable prep sink on an island. These island sinks tend to be smaller, 15 in. by 15 in., as opposed to the 3 ft. by 2 ft. deep main sink, which people want for big pots.”
“It’s important to know the kind of faucet and other features you want before buying a sink.”
Cutouts are the holes created in the rear of the sink to accommodate faucets, sprayers and soap dispensers. Some sinks, such as undermounts, don’t need cutouts. Others, like the large farm sinks, require wall-mounted faucets, so they also don’t need cutouts.

Most ordinary sinks come with cutouts, but it’s important to know the kind of faucet and other features you want before buying a sink–unless you fall so madly in love with a sink that has four cutouts that you’re willing to fill the holes with just anything.

Some sinks come with only one cutout; these are for the newer all-in-one faucets that contain hot and cold controls as well as a pull-out sprayer.

According to Barna, most homeowners are “moving away from the huge number of hole cutouts. Grohe has one-hole faucet that has a number of different functions. No separate hole for hot, no separate hole for cold and no separate hole for spray arm.”

Three Ways to Mount A Sink

1. Undermounted

The most popular method of mounting a kitchen sink today is undermounted, which means the sink literally is mounted beneath the counter. An advantage to undermounting is that crumbs and food trash simply can be swept into the sink. A disadvantage is expense: Most undermount sinks are a bit costlier than comparable drop-in or surface-mounted sink.

2. Drop-in

This is the traditional way of mounting a sink in which the sink is literally dropped into the cut-out in the countertop. Drop-in sinks are often cast-iron and are ringed by a large, raised lip, which rests on the countertop surface. An advantage to drop-ins is that they’re preferable for use with laminate countertops, which aren’t suitable for undermounted sinks because of potential water damage to the laminate substrate.

3. Surface-Mounted

Although very popular in past decades, the surface-mounted sink is probably one of the least popular sink installations today, especially since the rise of the undermounted sink. The surface-mounted sink comes with a metal rim that attaches to the countertop. The sink is then attached to the rim using screws. Although it’s nearly flush with the countertop, a standard complaint is that grime and moisture get trapped on both sides of the metal rim.

Tudor style homes exude a captivating combination of medieval character, warmth and charm.  Characterized by steep sloping roofs, stucco-clad gables, half-timber detailing, multi-paned windows and brick siding, this English-born style became popular in America in the 1890’s and continued to flourish until about 1940.   Many of the original Tudor neighborhoods have been well preserved, and to this day, the style is a favorite among fans of architecture.  Tudor homes can range from small to quite large and generally offer more than one level of living space.  Single-story Tudors, however, are not uncommon.

• Medieval character and charm
• Steep rooflines with stucco-clad gables
• Stone, brick and half-timber detailing

English Tudor Home Plan # 20173
The Tudor Style Touch
The peaked roofline and dormered pavilion of this Tudor design creates regal exterior effects. The interior (2,511 sq. ft. Tudor floor plan) conveys elegance via formal foyer, dining and living rooms. The open hearth room (with built-in desk and deck access) is laid back. A central island punctuates the casual kitchen. The main-floor master bedroom is crowned by a vaulted ceiling, and features two walk-in closets, and master bath with spa-style tub, dual sinks. Upstairs, bedroom #2 boasts a beautiful geometric window and front-yard view. Bedroom #3 enjoys the back-yard vista. Optional bedroom #4 creates a tranquil study. The shared bathroom has a skylight. Two-car garage offers extra storage.

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The term “Vacation Home” encompasses a number of styles of architecture, including A-Frames, Cabins, Cottages and more.   Perhaps the most common attribute of the Vacation Home is its provision of great views and comfortable outdoor living spaces.  Large, plentiful windows often face the most scenic views.   Sprawling decks, covered porches, screened rooms, courtyards and verandas provide relaxed settings in which to enjoy The Great Outdoors - all within a few steps of the comforts of home.  The vacation home floor plans range in size from small weekend cabins, to sizeable homes capable of accommodating multiple families.

• Relaxed architectural character
• Large, abundant windows for optimizing views from the inside
• Outdoor living spaces - decks, screened rooms, courtyards, etc.
• Smaller floor plans

Simple and Practical Vacation Style Home Plan #35009
This home epitomizes simplicity and practicality. The U-shaped kitchen is efficient in layout. There is ample storage and counter space as well as a dining area. The living room is open to the kitchen/dining room and includes an entertainment center that is built-in. The bedroom is of a nice size and has a large closet. If you would like to expand in the future, there is a loft that overlooks the kitchen and living room. This home plan makes a great second home for retreats or vacation getaways.

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Interior stairways help define a home’s look and serve as more than just a connecting point between two levels. Today’s stairway offerings include a wide selection of styles and accessories, allowing homeowners to express their individual taste with looks that are easily incorporated into any home.

NOTE: If you are currently building or preparing to build a new home now is the best time to incorporate a distinctive stairway into your house plans.

Customization
With the growing popularity of personalized home decor and design, today’s specialty stairways can help set rooms apart while complementing the home’s overall interior style.

For example, forged iron designs feature high-quality iron with several elegant patterns to match a broad range of looks. Forged iron balusters easily incorporate Old World charm into interior spaces, and are available with patterns such as globes, spoon designs, classic twists, graceful baskets, intricate scrolls and twisted ribbons.

Mixing and matching forged iron styles with traditional materials is also a popular way to customize stairways. Contrasting forged iron balusters and medallions with the natural warmth of wood railings and wood newels (stair components typically located at the bottom of a staircase and at all rail transition points) enhances visual interest. And for a truly distinctive look, special forged balusters can be combined to incorporate designs with feathered, round, scrolled, hammered, butterfly and basket profiles.

Homeowners can work with their builder and stair component supplier to create a custom stairway. Programs are now available that offer a simple way to translate unique stairway ideas into reality. “The possibilities for a custom, designer stairway are nearly endless,” says David Wynne of Coffman Stairs. “Our Customs & Specials program makes it easy for homeowners to achieve a one-of-a-kind design, with stair parts produced to the highest standards of craftsmanship.”

Classic Looks for Contemporary Spaces
Contemporary stair product selections offer wide versatility for homeowners to create a modern twist on classic stairway styles. Designs range from simple to ornate, with handcrafted detailing offering a warm, engaging look.

Hardwood staircase options add an element of timeless appeal. For example, the art deco style exudes an elegant quality reminiscent of the popular design movement with its soft curves and elongated tapers. Other admired styles include Bristol, featuring delicate carvings atop vase balusters; and Chippendale, made famous by the master furniture maker, featuring carefully crafted flutes and graceful proportions.

In addition to traditional hardwood choices, a full range of wood species is available –from rich mahogany and walnut, to more exotic choices like Brazilian cherry and Australian cypress. Exotic options provide the flexibility to create a unique stairway masterpiece.

Finishing Touches
For a visually appealing look that complements the overall room design, it is important for homeowners to become familiar with the finishing options and accessories available with stair products.

Homeowners are creating design consistency with forged iron finishing colors that complement furniture, cabinet and window hardware, including matte black, antique bronze, powder coat and satin black. Oil-rubbed copper and antique nickel finishes lend a subtler, lighter look. Black adds a touch of drama, and antique nickel provides a more contemporary feel, blending with many of today’s home hardware looks.

Additionally, visual interest can be enhanced with decorative forged iron accessories. Medallions for use in medallion balusters can also be incorporated and are available in simple or ornate round styles. Brass baskets incorporated into balusters are a differentiating alternative and add an unexpected look to rooms with sophisticated or luxurious decor.

Homeowners are looking to custom stairways as a fresh way to differentiate and personalize homes. From hardwood styles that complement modern living areas to custom forged iron designs, there are many high-quality options to choose from to match any taste.

For more information on custom stairway design options, visit www.coffmanstairs.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

The Southern style home spans a broad spectrum of historic architectural styles and consequently, there is not one particular “look” that defines this category.  Southern homes can range from simpler “Low Country” designs with shed-roofed porches, to grand Plantation style structures with elaborate columns, sweeping staircases and decorative friezes.  No matter the size or style, the Southern style home has almost always included an outdoor living area, be it a covered porch, balcony, screened room or veranda.  These outdoor spaces, of course, grew out of the necessity to seek shade and fresh air in the days before air conditioning.

• Historic and hospitable in appearance
• Outdoor living spaces - porches, screened rooms, verandas, etc.
• Southern floor plans are open allowing the breeze to move through the home
• Styles range from simple to grand
• Southern home designs although popular in the south are also built in the midwest

Popular Southern Home Plan #92465
This home design is what we choose to call an “Elegant Southern Country” style. This 1-½ story home is a simple southern design but becomes irresistible with its full-surround porch and symmetrical dormers. If you can bear to leave the delightful porch for a while to go inside, you’ll find a somewhat contemporary design with lively angles, room brightening clerestory windows and spacious open areas.
This is a “master on main level” floor plan with lots of glass, an open family room, kitchen and eating area, and very little wasted space. Upstairs are 2 sizeable bedrooms and a loft. Bedroom 2 has a walk-in closet with a pass-through to attic storage and built-in bookcase. Bedroom 3 has a built-in desk and bookshelves. A special convenience is the laundry chute just outside bedroom 2.
The ceilings on the main level are 9’ except for the clerestory areas above the master bedroom, family room, eating area and dining area which rise to approximately 18’. Upstairs ceilings are 8’. This southern house plans is one of our best selling plans.

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